Food fusion has become less judgemental. There are still discussions about the “authenticity” of cuisine and cultural appropriation. Still, enough talented chefs have produced delicious, well-informed, and informed fusion foods that people don’t wince anymore when they hear the word. Chef Mino Han, at his excellent Alt Pasta Bar, is one of the most recent exponents of wince-free food fusion.
Alt has taken the space that was formerly occupied by Shik, a Korean restaurant that is now sadly defunct. They have kept the best features of the exposed brick and glamorously dark room and expanded the central bar to become an open kitchen. The hip-hop music has been removed. It’s cozier, less noisy, and more suited to the intentions of a pasta bar.
You can find plenty of pasta that will not upset you if you’re a traditionalist. You want classics like cacio epepe, carbonara, or lasagne? (Although one with wagyu-ragu). Alt is a master of these dishes and shows off his pasta-making abilities that, showing Han as a true student. The alternative is where the real joy (and reason for the name) lies.
The best dish is the spinach pappardelle, which has been tossed in nori butter with salmon roe and soy sauce and then topped off with a few discs of abalone that are as soft and silky as pasta. Fusilloni with lamb shanks ragu is a delicious combination of XO tomato sauce, a little heat from nori butter, and mint.
Do not ignore the snacks. The snacks are a great way to showcase Han’s finesse and skills.